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To Build A Ship....the HMS Victory and Cleopatra
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Ron
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By mkchen

the little block that they use to raise and lower the angle of the cannon barrel (I don't know the real name of it, though I'm sure someone out there will let me know!),...

Ooh, Ooh, I know! It's a "quoin." "A wooden wedge with a handle at the thick end used to adjust the elevation of a gun." from "A Sea of Words- A Lexicon and Companion to the Complete Seafaring Tales of Patrick O'Brian," 3rd ed., by Dean King.
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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Gil

Hello All,

"Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern" by Milton Roth, 1988, McGraw Hill TAB Books.

Another book that will save lots of time.

Best regards, Gil
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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Maurice

Larry

That's a beautful piece of work.
The reason you're not happy with the barrel is that R1 simply isn't the right shape.
If you wouldn't be offended I can let you have a shape that gives the right length and taper to the basic barrel.

Maurice


This is without prejudice to the fact that I categorically deny having a copy of this kit, which if I did have I'd never get around to building in this lifetime, and I most certainly don't have a CAD drawing of the cannon being developed for another and less ambitious project, which if it existed would never get around to being finished anyway.


[Edited by maurice on 2003-11-30 2:25 AM]
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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Sticky Fingers

The guns look a place to definetly try the paper casting Gil developed. I can't wait to see what these are going to look like when they're done.
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Mark, just Plain Mark
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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Larrymax

Maruice

Thank you very much. I would certainly appreciate it if you sent me a non-existant CAD drawing of the correct shape and size for my cannon barrels. It's too bad you don't have a copy of this kit....it would sure be nice to have someone else along for this ride!

My email address is catagorically not: larrymax1009@yahoo.com



[Edited by Larrymax on 2003-11-30 11:12 AM]
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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Peter H

This is a marvelous thread.

I'm thinking of getting a horse to take me between the shipyards and the Royal arsenal to follow progress.

All the best...
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Gil

Hello All,

The following table comes from Milton Roth's book, "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern". Notice that the length of most of the main guns doesn't vary that much in length. They do vary in diameter as the larger bores required larger gunpowder charges resulting in increased detonation pressure within thee breech. I'll research that next and hopefully come up with a ratio that covers this. Also position of trunions and rings is (at least on British Men-of-War) ratio-metric after 1750.



Later....,

Best regards, Gil

P.S. Finally turned the Excel table into a JPEG file (a la Rick) and used the (less than symbol here)img src= "www.yourserver/yourpicture.jpg"> html(greater than symbol here) statement (a la Leif Oh)to get it to show.

[Edited by Gil on 2003-12-02 8:48 PM]
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Larrymax

This evening I got to put on my first deck! I'm so easily excited! After trimming out the piece, I dry fit it in place. About 3 or 4 of the slots didn't match up quite perfectly with the rails they needed to slot on to, and required a bit of trimming to allow a smooth, jam free, fit. After trimming out all the hatch holes and the main mast hole, I slip traced the part onto its stiffining chipboard. When cutting out the chipboard I cut the holes slightly larger, and the outside edge slightly smaller to insure the chipboard would not show through the cutouts or hang over the sides.



I don't want to risk any "bubbling" or separation down the road so I used Super 77 spary glue to hold the two parts together and burnished the deck down really well. Then it was time for the glue down! I spread glue on the top of all the appropriate bulkheads, carefully inserted one edge of the deck into place, flexed the deck to slip under the railings on the other side and popped the deck into place. A quick note: I added a bit of chipboard ledge, following the curature of the deck, where the aft edge of the deck butts agains the bulkhead, to give the deck something to be glued to. Finally, a bit of pressure and smoothing to insure good contact, and VIOALA! I'm sooo happy : ) I have a deck! I'm already putting my little cannon on the deck and looking down the deck and out the railings and feeling very nautical! This is FUN!


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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Gil

Hello All,

Larry, nice work! One thing I noticed from your photos is that the Cleo's decking has distinct plank end marking. The Victory as printed doesn't inclued this. I guess these will have to be added after scanning. Did you complete all the below deck detail before decking it over?

I'm still cutting out the remainder eggcrate..., a process interrupted by running out of illustrator board. Luckily I found three sheets that someone had walked on and was able to get 30% off.

Anyone know how to get an excel spreadsheet table to a post?

Best regards, Gil

P.S. I've also been doing some side work on a German Type XXI boat which has been sitting around for over a year due to some disappointment about how it was going together. Solved the problem with two paper towel tubes, end plug circles and lunes for the dual co-joined hull cylinders. Worked out incredibly well. Also found out that by wrapping the shaft of the Olfa circle cutter with a slit aluminum tube allowed it to be put in the chuck of a small table drill press. Running the drill press at low speed makes cutting out circular illustrator board so much fun you'll run out of scrap quickly. Also buffing the blade with the Xacto buffing wheel with polishing compound makes the cutting easier and more accurate. Make sure to use a soft wood backing piece for the center needle to steady in.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By rickstef

Gil,

either make a snapshot of it in windows, or try to export the table as a graphic, then just attach as normal, I guess I can fiddle with Excel and see what happens

Rick


-----
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors"
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Larrymax

Gil, Of course I put in all the below deck details! Don't be silly! I built a nice stove, some mess areas, hung a few hammocks and built the powder room (lined with lead)..... : ) Actually, I did no such thing.....there is not detail under the main deck. I'll put my "faux" gun ports under the fore and aft decks next, before covering them over. As for the deck plank ends being visible, on my Cleo, they've actually drawn the plank edges as well as the wood plugs covering the deck nails. On an real ship you can't really see these details unless you look really close, so I'm not so sure how accurate it is to have them drawn on the deck like this,.... but It looks OK, just not really accurate.

Heres' a pic of a model cannon station I made last Christmas....it's wood and the gun barrel is made from Sculpy modeling clay, but wood is just paper-on-the-hoof, right! Just thought you'ld enjoy it.

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Ron
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Larrymax

Hi Peter. Yes, there is stuff happening. Kind of mundane, repetitive stuff, though. I had a VERY BUSY weekend (wife's birthday, you know!) and wasn't able to squeeze in much modeling time. I did manage to finish the rest of the Gun Port "shadow boxes" and installed them. With any luck at all I'm going to get the aft deck installed this evening. Here's a couple of rather boring little pics of all the gun port boxes in place. Now.....back to building! : )





....P.S. Where are ya, Darwin!!!???
....P.P.S. Double-Dog-Dare you to join in Ron!!! ; ) You could start with something easy, like, for instance, "The HMS Bounty"!!! hehehe!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Ron

I take that dare!! I'll wait and see if the boss is generous this thursday
and pick a nice one Smile(Shop Christmas party) Seriously, any suggestions for a nice ship with medium complexity?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By Gil

Larry,

Bought builder board that's 1.5 mm thick..., finally obtained 1 mm thick illustrator board and am still cutting out the longitudinal deck plates..., dry fit the bulkheads to the center keel plate and realized this is going to be a very large model.

Found that the judicial use of Minwax Wood Hardener on sharp or pointed areas and areas which receive high stress works wonders. Paint it on liberally on both sides and let dry thouroughly (~4-5 hours). Pictures maybe by next week.

Best regards, Gil

[Edited by Gil on 2003-12-09 1:02 AM]

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By cardfan

I just wanted to say that everyone is doing fantastic work! You have convinced me to start on a ship myself... the USS Oregon. I'm crazy but I don't need therapy... 6 hours per cannon, gives me the shivers. I'm off to sharpen a blade or two and get started.

Glen
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